10-50V 100A 5000W DC Motor Engine Speed Controller PWM Control Industrial Motor Speed Regulator for DC Brush Motor DC Lamps

I hav used pwn 3 times on the kayak today puttin along and all of a sudden I see smoke porin out of waterproof box I had it in not real happy.

I installed this in my boat to solve my trolling motor problems.My boat is a 17.5 foot aluminum bass boat. My trolling motor is 24V and 70# thrust. It pushes the boat too fast to use because it's such a light vessel. Trolling on even the lowest speed is too fast for many types of fishing.Initially I just put in a switch that toggled between 12V and 24V. Running the TM on 12V was much better for the boat....until it got windy. Then, I could max the TM out on speed but with only 12V it just couldn't handle it. That's why the 12V/24V toggle. But, even in really strong winds 24V was too much. The TM running on its max speed was faster than my outboard at idle. No matter what I did, I was either moving too fast or too slow when using the trolling motor.This speed controller solved all my problems. I set my 12V/24V selector switch to stay at 24V and wired this guy in. Now, I can control exactly how much voltage I send to my TM. If it's windy, I'll increase the voltage until my boat can handle it. If it's a really calm day I can send as little as 1V to the TM - although that's not enough to do anything with.When changing voltage with the knob, the controller sends it in a smooth curve, slowly ramping up the voltage rather than suddenly switching it to a higher value. You can also see this when you stop the motor - rather than instantly stopping, the speed controller decelerates it to a stop. This type of accel/decel during speed changes can extend the life of a motor through better management of inrush current.The speed controller is fan-cooled and requires you to install it so that heat dissipates properly. It can and will get hot if you try to drive it hard. It has a motor reversing switch as well as a knob for changing the voltage. The wire leads to both of these controls are super short, so there's not much you can do about locating them unless you want to splice in some wire to make the leads longer. The knob also functions as the on/off switch for the unit.While this controller did solve my problems, it's not ideal for my installation. (This aspect didn't affect my rating, though.) I put it in a boat but it's not a marine-rated piece of hardware. So I had to do some extra things to get it to work. I opted to put the whole thing under the deck in one of my compartments because that's the only way I can keep it dry. (Because the box is full of ventilation holes to keep it cool, it's not too far off from just being a circuit board exposed to open air. Open air in a boat is nearly always wet.) I don't need the reversing switch so I tied it back and secured it. I mounted the knob on a short piece of 2"x2" aluminum angle. Using a voltmeter, I took measurements along the knob's sweep to locate where it was when it supplied 6V, 9V, 12V, 15V, and 18V. I marked those locations on the aluminum angle itself with a marker. (A faceplate with a range of 0% ...... 100% would have been a great inclusion.) I would have liked to lengthen the leads and swapped out the knob for a marine-rated one that I could mount in my switch panel, but this would have required cutting and splicing marine wire with non-marine wire. So, I elected to just sequester the whole unit in the driest place on my boat, and deal with having to open up a hatch to change my TM voltage.Overall I'm very pleased with this device. It does exactly what I need it to do. Its only real downfalls - reflected in my rating - are the fact that the wires to the controls are really short, and the fact that the motor reversing switch is extremely tiny. If you had to use it, it would be difficult even if mounted in a nice location - which itself would be hard to do since the leads to the switch are at most 5-6" long.

for an outside module this is excellent and very easy to install

I am using this controller for a 12V DC motor that powers my riding lawn tractor. The lawn tractor has had the mowing deck removed and is used to pull a small trailer that I use for yard work.I am using a deep cycle 12v battery and a brushed 12 volt motor.When using the controller at 12v and 40 amps it appears the unit overheated and shut off. I added a cooling fan and have been able to operate at 12 V and 40 amps. That is nominally 480 watts. I have not tried any higher amps yet until I get more run time at 40 amps. My motor came with 12 awg motor leads at 18 " long. I was able to get copper lugs and mount to controller. My battery wires are 8 AWG and ever so carefully, (with a little trimming of the lugs) I was able to mount to the control board. This is one reason, I rate this product 1 star. If you are truly rated for 100 Amps, then you need to provide a board designed with enough room to accommodate wires rated for 100 amps. 8 AWG wire is nominally rated at 40 amps. Because my wire is a single wire in free air, it is probably good for 55 amps. It would be extremely hard to get lugs for #6 or #4 wire to mount to this board without touching a nearby connector.The forward/off/reverse switch is a good feature, but the switch is smaller than a miniature switch. My normal size fingers could not operate. I needed to mount a switch to a control panel so I replaced the switch. The control wires used are so so small and were difficult to strip. I had trouble stripping the wires and soldering new wires to them. I am not sure what gauge they were but my new 20 ga wires were huge in comparison. I had to do the same for the speed pot which is a 100K potentiometer.Finally, I should not have to add a fan to cool the controller. Yes it is summertime and yes it is hot outside but I look at the news and others are 20 deg f warmer that I am. It is not 104F or 40C, but the controller needs an external fan. The positive is that, I have gotten the unit to work. The negative, is that I had to do so much other work to get the controller to work.

I use this with a 45lb thrust trolling motor. It worked with no issues. I have seen a lot of people complain about the terminal spacing. I had no issues with that. I used 8awg wire with ring terminals and had plenty of space. Yes, there should be better instructions. There are a couple of things to keep in mind:1) Never switch immediately from forward to reverse. Let the motor stop first. If you don't, you will likely burn up the PWM.2) Don't put this in a box with no air circulation. It can get hot and fail.3) If you are using a fish finder, make sure you have a separate battery or a really good DC filter. It will put noise on the line and mess with the other electronics on the line.4) It doesn't really matter the polarity of the motor connection. This is a reversing controller. If the motor is spinning the wrong way, stop the motor, flip the fwd/rev switch the other way, start the motor. Problem solved.For mounting in my boat, I used an aluminum enclosure and left one end off for air circulation. I'm worried about rain dripping in. If water is high enough in the boat to hurt this, I have bigger problems to deal with. I extended the wires for the forward/reverse switch using self-soldering butt splices. To hook to the battery and motor, I used some battery connector plugs. If anything happens to the module on the water, I can simply plug the motor directly to the battery.Overall, I am happy with this unit.

Product works well

External wiring is extremely fragile. I have no idea if the product even works. Product did not even survive installation. Intended only for very delicate applications. Poorly designed.

work well for my project so far, the four start it’s because it not very clear how to plug it, you don’t have instructions in the box, so i had to check the picture on amazon and hope that nothing explode