4 Button Hoist Crane Industrial Wireless Radio Remote Control Transmitter and Receiver for AC110V IP66

I bought this off others claiming how far it picks up but 25ft max and it begins to skip in and out. Also anything metal in between the signal completely stops the signal. Added mine to a wireless roll off trailer and after 2weeks I have to hold my hand out the truck window to get signal.

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Haven't had a chance to try it yet. It looks like it is well made and should do the job quite well. I don't think you could go wrong with this if you are desiring a remote for an overhead hoist. With a little imagination and obviously some "know how" you could find numerous things to operate with this system. It's really just a multi-channel wireless switch. Why not get one and have some fun with it! :-)

We got this to add on to our boat lift, allowing us to initiate the lift from inside the boat as opposed to climbing around on the boat house rails. We live on an island where we use our boat the way most people use cars, so this is like a garage door opener for us. We are very happy with the result.The components are well made and encased in a durable fiberglass reinforced nylon. I couldn't find any reference to the waterproof rating for either piece, but they appear to at least be water resistant. In my application neither the control or the receiver will be exposed too much water so should be fine long term.Installation is straightforward and relatively simple if you have basic electronics experience.This is a great product at a reasonable price.

Works as described. Relative needed this for his shop. He said it works well. Glad he got to check it out.

This wireless crane remote is remarkably well-made. The case of the remote and the receiver control panel are made of a heavy-duty, durable plastic. The webpage says it’s fiberglass reinforced nylon and it looks and feels like that’s what it is. You have to take out four screws to get to the batteries of the remote, but those four screws are screwed into brass inserts, so you don’t have to worry about stripped out screw holes. On the receiver, the back is held on with four long screws, but they are only screwed into the plastic. However, you shouldn’t be removing the back except on a rare occasion, so brass inserts aren’t really needed.The spade terminals used on the multitude of wires have heat shrink tubing over the crimp and the wire. In fact, the heat shrink tubing extends too far onto the spade on some of them keeping you from using the full surface. You’re only able to use the two forks for contact area. That’ll work, but it’s not ideal. You really should cut and remove that small amount of excess tubing.The wiring diagram is included on the front of the receiver panel, but it’s a bit confusing the way it’s worded. The minimal instructions aren’t much more help, either. On the internet, almost all of the numerous videos are not in English, so they weren’t a lot of help, either, although, from some I was able to see how they wired it and could confirm what I thought the wiring should be.The problem is it calls for the black and brown wires to each be hooked to a separate “Power” connection. Then, the red wire is to be hooked to the “Main”, while the orange wire is hooked to “Com” (common). “Main” is your incoming power supply, and “Com” is your common or neutral wire. However, the diagram shows “Main” and “Com” connected along with all the other wires. Plus, the two “Power” connections hook into what looks like an inductive load of some sort, but could represent one side of a transformer perhaps.Turns out, the “Power” isn’t what you’re feeding power to, no, that’s your incoming power to the receiver control panel. The “Main” and “Com” are hooked to the power supply of what you are controlling. So, yes, it’s really confusing without a real electrical diagram detailing this. Plus, this is only controlling relays that power your motors. They are all momentary buttons, but the Start button activates an internal relay that stays on until Stop is pushed. There is a magnetic emergency stop key that you just grab the cable and pull it out. Everything shuts down if you do that.There’s even a heavy, clear plastic cover that completely encases the remote to keep it clean. It really is well-designed, if not completely documented. Oh, the viewport for the red “On” diode on the receiver panel is misaligned, and the diode is not very bright on 110v. So, there are a few missteps in an otherwise extremely good wireless crane remote control.Amazon Vine sent this product to me for an honest unbiased review. Would I recommend it? Yes, even with all of its faults (only a few, though troublesome) it’s a quality piece of equipment that will hold up well even under rugged use conditions.

The buttons respond pretty good with no lagging, which I'm kinda impressed with. It's not bulky and it's well made which is a plus. Thanks Vine.

For me this AIRTAK remote control is an excellent replacement for my “Cherry Pickers” remote, I burnt out the old one a couple of years ago and I was stuck using the controls in the cradle. Made of fiberglass and reinforced nylon this remote control is extremely durable and has a waterproof rating making it practically indestructible. Easy to install with some basic electrical knowledge and loving the remotes nylon storage case. Over all great durable product thats worth the bang for the buck.