Replaced and works fine

The evap valve is good quality. Direct fit for my 07 Tahoe. I'm only giving it 4 stars because it does NOT come with the wiring harness. I had to locate that.

Adapte très bien,

Pieza original

Has all the markings of a great product

Put on and my engine light went off. Part looks of good quality and fitted perfectly. I did not needed the adapter since my 2012 has the same wire harness as the vapor vent valve. Is been about 2-3 weeks and no issues up to now.

I have a code reader I use so I know what to expect before going to the shop for repairs. This P0449 code happened three times over the first 100,000 and was repaired by the dealer under warranty. The last time near the 98,000 mile mark it was repaired minus my $100 deductible against my 100,000 extended warranty. This is now the 4th time at 140,000 so I figured I should check out the code to fix with parts myself and save money. Had I known how simple this fix would be, I would definitely have done it the last time as with tax and free prime shipping it was $62You will spend about $41 for the ventilator assembly & you will need the special $17 adapter wiring harness, ACDelco 19257603 also available on amazon or it will not likely fit your existing vehicle harness plug.If unfamiliar with vehicles, you can check out a nice youtube video on how to do this, search for "2007 Suburban P0449".From start to finish it takes less than 30 minutes with a 1/2 inch combination wrench, 10mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, wire cutters and three new 6" wire ties (tie-wraps).1) - using the 10mm wrench carefully disconnect battery ground cable to allow the vehicle memory to clear the fault code from vehicle volatile memory that is turning on the check engine light.2) - Using the vehicle jack handle tool kit and ignition key to unlock & lower spare tire, pull the spare out of your way towards the rear passenger side of vehicle (no need to disconnect the winch cable)3) - cut the black plastic wire ties on the hoses going up behind the drivers rear tire towards the gas cap filler neck to release the corrugated plastic loom style hose leading to the old assembly.4) - unplug wiring harness from old assembly5) - using a flat blade screwdriver press in on the fitting release & pull to remove the rigid tube that connects to the charcoal canister.6)- using a 1/2 inch socket or box end wrench unbolt the old assembly from the vehicle.7) Reverse to complete job - with installing the new assembly and connecting harness adapter and wrapping hoses with new tie-wraps, keeping the boxy end of the new hose as high up as possible to keep road grime out of the opening.Last step - reconnect ground cable to battery and turn on ignition and wait. The check engine light should be off, so you can start the car.By the way, I noticed a pattern that this P0449 occurs when I have a full tank and park on a rather step incline uphill, within days the MIL/Check Engine light comes on. Perhaps the charcoal canister becomes flooded as fuel may escape through the solenoid under expansion of the tank from the temperature heating up from a cool morning 60°F to over 90°F by late afternoon, and expands the gasoline in the full tank while I am at work? I definitely won't be filling up and parking on an incline.(no, I don't overfill the tank. I stop filling tank at first click shutoff on gas pump handle).

You have no doubt read all the other reviewers who I must thank for their detailed reviews as they gave me the courage to go ahead and take a chance on ordering and installing this. I am a true novice with vehicle repair and was able to get this done with everyone's instructions, plus some really good youtube video for Chevy Silverado or some other truck.You DEFINITELY NEED the electronic HARNESS people mention and advertised on Amazon as something people buy with this. If you are worried about whether this stuff will fit your vehicle, do what I did and check out ACDELCO's website. It's clunky and they don't seem to sell anything directly, but it will tell you what parts work with your vehicle.At the approx $55 bucks I bought the harness and this part for, I saved the difference on the $260 'easy fix' that my dealer was saying it was. While it took me as a novice 2 hours in the freezing cold (a good part of that checking and rechecking I was doing the right thing, getting familiar with the undersides of my truck, and coming to realize I was really for sure going to be a lot better off dropping the tire and moving it out of the way), but it is in fact really simple and given the tools and expertise the dealers have, it's criminal that they charge so much.What is also criminal is that every parts store nearby was charging within $10 of the dealers inflated $160 dollars for these parts. So let's see, that's 3x mark up on the parts plus another $100 the dealer wanted for what amounted to 15 minutes work.Now don't get me wrong my friends out there who are mechanics, I know that there is a lot of give and take in the costs a garage incurs versus what it earns, but seeing as I had just handed 1700 over to the dealer for some other very expensive repairs, I feel justified in saying they could have cut me more of a break.In the end, I am just glad I was able to make the engine code go away, get my emissions control system up to snuff, and save some money.The people who say removing that bolt is tough are correct, it's a tight fit for your hands, but truthfully thought it would be worse and once you get a socket up there of the right size (don't forget it's metric) and in the right spot, it's not too bad. The harder part for me was getting the hose lose from what I think folks described as the 'carbon box' that is a bit further up toward the front. That thing is in a tough spot for big hands. I recommend checking the new part and observing how the button works to release the part so you know where to push when you finally get your frozen Fred Flintstone fingers in there. It doesn't exactly pop off, so newbies like me should understand that you can carefully but firmly kinda wiggle it off. Once you press that button right it comes off pretty easy.The other bit of advice I would add is pay attention to where that tube runs from where the canister attaches to the carbon box. I wasn't sure where to put it it when I put it back on. Once I found the spot, it seemed pretty obvious I had it in the right place as the tube is pre-bent to clear the obstacles that would be in it's way.Hope that helps. As a noob, I would say it's slightly more difficult than changing an air filter, but definitely do-able as you don't really have to disassemble much of anything. Just be careful clipping those zip ties and don't yank on anything because if you are like me, you don't know what the heck it is.

I purchased this part for my 2007 Chevy Avalanche. The installation was a breeze and the part fit perfectly. There isn't much to it,just cut the zip ties and take the old one off, then put the new one in its place. Even a novice DIY auto mechanic can do this installation, and you only need one wrench for the bolt that holds the canister in place. You may want to add a few more zip ties to the exhaust tube that goes up to the vent filter, but I didn't bother. Very easy to install and now I can fill my tank without venting problems and the check engine light is gone. I would recommend this to anyone thinking of doing it themselves. It takes about half an hour from start to finish and will save you a ton of money versus going to the dealership.