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Your cart is empty. Technical Parameters:
Model: KSD301
Contact Resistance: ≤50mΩ
Action Temperature: 110°C
Temperature accuracy: ± 5 °C
Enclosure protection level: IP00
Insulation Resistance: ≥100MΩ
Action type: Normally Close, Auto Reset.
Contact Life: More than 50,000 times (action times).
-Electrical Strength: AC50Hz, 2000V/min no breakdown and arc phenomenon.
Features:
⚡Electrical parameters: AC250V | 50 ~ 60Hz | 10A | 110°C (resistive load).
⚡Grounding method: Ground the device with the thermostat metal cover.
⚡Contact form: NC, temperature rises, contacts open, temperature drops, contacts open.
⚡Electric strength: AC 50Hz 1800V lasts 1min, there is no flicker and no breakdown between live metal parts and non-live metal parts.
Installation Steps:
1. Install ordinary movable ring.
2. Install small round movable ring.
3. Install flat movable ring.
4. Ordinary large aluminum cover with installation hole, and extend aluminum cover with installation hole.
Notice:
1. In the case of contact temperature-sensitive installation, the metal cover surface should be close to the installation surface of the controlled appliance.
2. In order to ensure the temperature-sensing effect, the temperature-sensing surface should be coated with thermally conductive silicone grease or other thermally conductive medium with similar performance.
3. Do not allow liquid to penetrate into the thermostat, do not cause cracks in the casing, and do not change the shape of the external terminals at will.
4. The product is used in a circuit with a current not greater than 10A, and the copper core cross section should be 0.75-1.5㎜² wire connection.
5. The product should be stored in a warehouse with a relative humidity of less than 90% and a clean, dry, non-corrosive gas at an ambient temperature below 40 °C.
Mark Twain
Reviewed in the United States on May 1, 2024
There are many brands for microwave thermostat. this part fits directly and fits well.The old part is using smaller clipper, so extra wiring is needed when install this part with standard 1/4 inch clip.
JB Riley
Reviewed in the United States on April 13, 2024
I ordered this thermostat to replace a thermostat in a steam generator that stopped heating up, only a short time after I bought it. It was the same part number, and went in easily. The only issue was that this replacement thermostat had wider terminals than the one that was already in the steam generator, so the connectors did not fit any longer. When I switched out the female connectors on my steam generator, it worked great. The steam generator cost $150, and this thermostat fix was only $5 so that made me happy. I can't help but think if these were made better, and cost twice as much, I wouldn't have to worry about them failing every 3 months of normal use - but then again, this is not the same crud item that was in my steam unit.
nahhee
Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2021
Reading the reviews on other flame sensors (AKA thermal fuse and other names) it's apparent that some people are part swappers who either don't have experience tracing circuits or know the function of these devices. Basically, a normally closed switch like this operates like a fuse (more correctly a fusible link) in your car or a really old house - once the target temperature is hit (in this case 110 C) they blow which shuts off the power to anything downstream to reduce the chance of an electrical fire. You will know an NC thermal switch like this is dead on most microwaves because nothing works, as if the power is out. After discharging the capacitor you can check continuity across the terminals of this, should be none. A better test, if you're experienced and know how to avoid shock, is to check for voltage on the side of this device opposite the power cord. If this device is blown there will be none. Many of these blow because of arcing between the connector on the power in side and the device - you will often see a partially melted insulator on the connector if that's the case. A good test if you're experienced and keep safety in mind (not only from shock but also fire) is to jumper across the device, you will see full function if this device is the sole cause of outage.The things you want to consider in replacing this device is temperature (110 C in this case) electrical specs (in this case 250V 10A NC (normally closed)) and form factor. This has the same spec as the switch on my GE microwave except that the terminals on the device are wider. That didn't matter to me because I soldered the device in to prevent another burnout due to arcing between the wire terminals and the device. A great deal, fix a $200 microwave and have a spare switch for next time for $6.
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