As the description says, the kit includes both thin and thick threaded magnetic adapters, cap, color coded UV, polarizer, and 3 ND filters. They dont clearly state that it also includes a tool that is very helpful in installing the thin threaded adapter to help prevent cross-threading. It looks like another metal ring, but upon close inspection it has "fingers" that clearly fit into slots on the thin threaded adapter that then help one to screw the adapter onto the lens (and remove it someday I suppose ....). This kit is well made and thought out. I bought these magnetic filters in advance of an artic trip, where I dont want to be trying to screw filters on/off of my lens with frozen fingers and it seems to be exactly what I wanted - and it will be nice even after the trip, as these are top-notch filters! I got the 112mm size for my Nikon 14-24 f2.8S lens where the filters screw into a special threaded lens hood - but note that the original Nikon is plastic and prone to filters falling out due to flimsy plastic so I use the NiSi metal replacement which is a piece of art for less than $70. That same hood fits Nikon 14-30 f4S (but with vignetting) and 24-70 f2.8S, so no need for more filters for those lenses. I also got some Kase magnetic size-up rings to use the 112 filters on my 77mm lenses (24-120 and 100-400). 1 set of filters covers everything.

Wish I could give this a perfect score because I like Kase products. I have their older filters kit 112mm. So I know the quality of the filters are good. Thought I'd get one for 82mm, and try out the new inlaid ring. I wanted to use filters with the lens hood and not use step up rings. You cannot use the step up rings with hood because the hood won't fit over the largers rings.The inlaid ring went in super smooth. Used the tool. However the issue was when I tried to unscrew the inlaid ring to get it back out. It got stuck half way. Screwed it in again fine, but unscrewing it was no go. Repeated it several times. In was fine. Out was no go. It was stuck half way, and eventually came out crooked and stuck. Eventually had to use needle nose pliers to grab the ring and force it out. Not straight up and out. But bend it inwards towards center of the ring as to not damage the ring and lens thread. Finally got it out.I'll be using the filters but not the adapter rings. I'll count them as bonus that I'll never use. I'll be getting the magnetic MCUV filters that is threaded already. That can be used with all Kase magnetic filters. Dont have to mess with any rings.

Over time, I have found that I use filters less and less often. It's not that I don't understand the benefits of my various filters. But aside from the top-line B+W Nano Pro clear filters that I leave attached to each of my lenses for protection, the hassle of screwing filters off and on generates just enough friction that I don't usually bother. Kase's magnetic filter system seemed to be the solution for removing this friction. After using them for a while, they are—and they aren't.Kase's Revolution System is a second generation system that makes some functional improvements to the design of their original Wolverine magnetic filter system without affecting image quality—at least this is what I've been told by multiple Kase dealers. This would suggest that if you already own and are happy with the first gen Wolverine system, there is no IQ argument for moving to the second gen filter set. I did notice one obvious IQ difference between the two filter generations which I will discuss later on. The second gen filters have a slightly smaller diameter which means that second gen filters and lens caps will fit or stack on first gen filters but not the reverse. The other changes are as follows:• Revolution filters are color coded to make identification easier. This is a nice improvement.• Revolution filters are a consistent thickness because they all have filter threads. This makes some of the Revolution ND filters thicker than the first gen filters they replace.• Revolution filter sets come with a seven-slot grey nylon case that is more expandable than the five-slot brown leather case it replaces.So how do they perform? Generally speaking, IQ is good. Unfortunately, Kase does not have a website which details the technical aspects of their filters' construction and coatings. I have not noticed any reduction in sharpness while using them. I have noticed, however, that the Revolution ND filters don't seem to have the same color cast as the first gen Wolverine ND filters. My experience seems to contradict the claim that there are no IQ differences between the two filter generations. Images shot with first gen Wolverine ND filters are easily identifiable by their magenta color cast in Bridge and Lightroom. Images shot using the Revolution ND filters are not. They are remarkably neutral.In terms of construction, Kase uses aluminum frames instead of brass. As a result, they are noticeably lighter than my B+W filters. Brass is considered the preferable material because it does not expand and contract with temperature changes, however given that the Kase filters rely on magnets rather than fine filter threads, there will be no issues with filters getting stuck in cold temperatures. The anodized coating on the B+W filter frames is definitely more durable than the one on the Kase filter frames. I would describe the quality of construction of these Kase Revolution filters as acceptable but inferior to the B+W filters.Does this system eliminate the friction of removing and swapping filters? Kind of. There is no question that the magnetic system is faster and easier than screwing filters on and off—but challenges remain. For example, imagine a stack of two filters and a magnetic lens cap all attached to a lens. You might expect the magnetic bond between each of these items to be equal. It is not. The strongest bond is between the lens cap and top filter. The weakest bond is between the bottom filter and the lens. This is the opposite of what you want. It means that removing the magnetic lens cap is always a fight. The entire stack of filters pulls off the lens every time. I was recently shooting on the Oregon coast. Sand and sea mist were blowing everywhere. These are the conditions when I most want to protect the front of my lenses from the elements. Yet each time I removed a lens cap or swapped a filter, the front of my lens was exposed (briefly) to sand and salt water. This is no bueno.To remove the magnetic lens cap or a filter requires using one or more fingernails to hold down the filters you want to remain on the lens while pulling on the lens cap or filter you wish to remove. It's a fiddly process that will no doubt result in my dropping a filter at some point. This is such a hassle that it's hard to believe Kase didn't address the problem with their second gen re-design. It is no coincidence that Polar Pro has just introduced their own line of magnetic filters that lock in place with a 1/4 turn, thereby solving this problem. (The Polar Pro system has its own issues, namely the inability to use lens hoods.) This is a significant usability issue that Kase would be smart to address sooner rather than later. Unfortunately, I don't expect that this will happen given that the Revolution system is a recent release.It is worth noting that you don't have to use the Kase magnetic lens caps. Theoretically, the front threads on each Revolution filter allow for the use of the manufacturer's own lens cap. However, my experience is that my Canon lens caps do not attach securely due to the shallow threads on the front of the Revolution filters.The bottom line is that I'm finding it hard to recommend the Kase Wolverine Revolution filter system. It is an improvement over the first gen Wolverine filters yet the difficulty separating the magnetic lens cap from the filters or the filters from each other is significant enough that it seriously dampens my enthusiasm for the system. If Kase can figure out a way to solve this problem, they’ve got a five-star product. As is: three stars.