*** edit/update ***The Seller read my review, looked over the photos, realized we'd received the wrong-sized diagonal braces for a door narrower than what we got, and a couple of days ago we received a surprise package with the correctly-sized braces. After discussing this with my wife, how I'd need to stain the new braces before replacing them, that I'd need to do them one at a time to avoid the door warping, and so on, my wife said she likes how the door looks, so I'll need to get the replacement parts back to the Seller. This is still a QC issue in us receiving the wrong-sized braces, but IMO is outstanding customer service from the Seller in doing their best to resolve this issue, so I wanted to say BEFORE my lengthy review, that it would behoove you, prospective Buyer reading this, to do a pre-assembly check before any staining, etc., and if you notice any QC issues reach out to the Seller FIRST before you start the actual work, painting, staining, etc.*** END OF UPDATE ***Door was easy to assemble, but there is a quality control issue with the the precut diagonal braces and the predrilled holes not lining up with the vertical planks. A big part of this problem was whoever drilled the holes, or programmed the machine to drill the holes, only drilled 6 holes and not 7. Further compounding the issue was all four of the diagonal braces (yes, four, there's two diagonal braces on the other side of the door) were all cut too short, to the wrong length, and so they did not extend all the way to each side of the door. The diagonal braces need to be cut longer, meaning changes need to be made to BOTH the length AND the angle at which they're cut. And for aesthetic purposes, but also build quality, there needs to be 7 predrilled holes per brace, not 6. *** SEE EDIT/UPDATE ABOVE ***Another BIG negative (for me) was halfway through assembly the plans/instructions mention using a circular saw or router to cut a kerf/groove down the middle of the bottom of the door to allow room for the floor guide, so the door doesn't swing in & out during use. I do have a circular saw but I'll be darned if I'm going to use it to try to cut a 1/2" groove the entire width of the door, from one edge/side to the other.Lastly, another caveat, if your doorway has a jamb (as ours does) that can impact how easy it is to open and close the door. In our case, the bolt heads holding the rollers onto the door strike the door jamb, and so I have a decision to make. Do I remove the door jamb completely? Or do I cut grooves into it to allow the heads to pass through? Had I actually cut a groove into the base of the door for the floor guide, and installed the floor guide, I would not be able to swing the door outwards to allow the bolt heads to clear the jamb. And so if you have a door jamb like we do, you will need to take this into consideration. For now, our door just hangs and swings freely, and it works okay, but I do still need to do something about the nut heads, or rather, with the door jamb.

I ordered this split door and even paid for the speedy delivery. Amazon required them to ship sooner than Amazon told me would be arriving.. and this company called me personally to verify I seriously wanted the doors delivered at over $200 shipping costs.. we did due to cancer patient in house needed bathroom access and this provides that as standard door blocked ability to provide assistance. And the doors arrived even a day earlier than the company said they would arrive.. Thank You!Everyone is seriously surprised at where I got them, how nice and durable they are and easy to assemble . Guide rails separate and we found handles that fit our situation and now I want more for other rooms!!

The door looks great nowBut arrived warped and took several days to straightenIf you have clamps to help flatten door you’ll be fineOnce straightened it looks great and is working well

Awesome product and the wood is beautiful. Very pleased ! This is knotty/rustic alder wood and it's expensive in the lumber yards, IF you can even find it. Menards in my area has a very small selection of it and it wasn't cheap. They definitely didn't have enough to do a whole door with. Lowes had none. I needed a 56" door so I bought two 28" doors and mended them together. Assembly was pretty simple except for the overlay/diagonal boards. They were just a little too long but a simple cut with the miter saw and that issue was fixed. I sanded all of the boards down and the stain took very well as you can see in the photo. I put the stain on and immediately wiped the excess off. If you're not looking for wood with cuts, knots, cracks, gouges, etc in it then don't buy this. That is the look we wanted so these were perfect for us. All of the boards were straight with no warping. Would recommend for sure.

This arrived in a just a few days and consisted of the components needed to assemble a complete door.-The Bad - Compared to oak or maple, Knotty Alder is a relatively soft wood. You can mark it with your thumbnail if you really want to so I was pleased to see that it arrived with only one damaged part. The damage was minor enough to be easily repaired with some wood putty. The other (minor} problem was that all the boards had marks left by the manufacturers' depth planer. These marks run across the grain and are not very obvious but will visually "pop" if/when the wood is stained. So I sanded all the boards (both sides) with a random orbit sander followed by a finishing sander for a better finish. To the manufacturer - I know it's expensive but if you replace the knives on your planer with a helix head system you can achieve a better finish. (My two cents)The Good - Everything fit. All components were present with a few extra screws instead of a few missing screws as we have probably all experienced with other "some assembly required" products. This is solid wood, not a thin easily scratched veneer over MDF. That means that if you need to sand out some small scratches or imperfections you will not sand through the veneer and reveal the particle board underneath.If you are going to stain this door before finishing I would recommend you stain it before assembly. When the door is assembled there are small decorative grooves running the length of the door that are much easier to stain before assembly rather than after. I sanded, stained, assembled and then sprayed it with lacquer. I have a spray gun for the lacquer so it was easy to get an even coat on the assembled door. If you decide to brush on the lacquer before assembly be aware that the boards fit together with a tongue-and-groove system and if you allow any lacquer to puddle on the tongue or in the groove you will need to be sanding or chiseling before final assemble in order to have a good fit.Hope this helps.