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Reviewed in the United States on February 3, 2025
Typically for bashers and extreme bashing you want to keep a lot of plastic parts. There are some benefits to metal parts though, just like these. The durability of The items obviously increase with metal replacement parts. It does not mean it's indestructible, it just can take a hit and provide less Flex.
Buckethead
Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2025
These axles add significant weight! And extra weight is not a good thing on a basher. See my pics. Stock axles are about 20 grams each. These are about 62-64 grams per axle! They had better be tough to make up for over triple the weight! If I’m going to trade the penalty of extra weight, it would be for the benefit of a tougher, better design. I would make that trade off if these were CVDs (like the add falsely claims), but these are U-joints - the same design as the stock plastic (and they work, btw - never had them break). The interesting thing to note is that the stock axles have a metal stub axle piece that fits into the plastic axle sleeve. These metal driveshafts have the stub axle molded into the U-joint. This could be good if the metal proves to be stronger. It could be bad if it’s not stronger than stock, because that’s a good feature of the stock design - if you slam into a curb and bend a stub axle, you simply replace that end piece, not the whole axle. I also noticed the splined shaft is a smaller diameter than stock. I suspect the failure point will be where the splined shaft meets the base of the U-joint at the wheel end.I do like that they come with red anodized aluminum hexes, with axle pins and wheel nuts. The hexes look cool with my red metal theme, and they are 14mm, so you can keep your stock wheels. And they come with washers to space the hexes from your hub bearings.I am giving them 4 stars for now because of the weight. Manufacturing looks good. I will update this after I run the car.Edit to add:Okay, the axle end where you thread on your wheel nut IS strong. What is not so strong are the U-joints. After a few heavy bash sessions (15 foot jumps, full speed rips across fields, etc), the U-joints all developed severe play. This happens in the stock part because they are plastic, but strangely, these have developed more play than the plastic ones ever could. This causes lots of wiggle at the wheel, even though the wheel nut is fully tight.Another issue is that these axles being metal are simply transferring the stress to the bearings. I now have slop in all my wheel bearings, to where the axle can wiggle about, even though it is fully seated in the bearings.All in all, these axles are not terrible. But they don’t work for my driving style and car setup. They are harder, as the seller claims, but they just transfer stress to adjacent parts, causing them to fail prematurely. I cannot recommend them if you have a setup like mine. I had to get stiffer aftermarket shocks with stiff springs and heavy weight oil in them just to handle the extra weight on my car. I am surprised it handled that many sessions.If you are easy on the throttle and don’t take big jumps, these are probably okay. Just know that you are adding weight and you may need to beef up other parts.
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