21-0-0 NPK analysis. Dissolves and sprays well with no wax or soap residue to granulars (dissolves completely and designed for spraying). The quality is on par with Greenway Biotech (the granules look the same to me).Sprayable AMS is far from economical for larger areas. Spraying will always get more even color than granular fertilizers… I like to apply with the TeeJet TTI11004 tip via a FlowZone Cyclone backpack sprayer and mixing is best with a clear square food prep bucket (square buckets don’t allow water to jump up the sides when mixing).For larger lawns with a moderate budget, ProPEAT is a premium granular fertilizer that uses ammonium sulfate as the nitrogen source (homedepot.com) which is very uncommon due to it’s higher cost vs. urea. I like the greens grade 13-5-8 ProPEAT in my larger back yard because it still gets a semi-premium result with a lot less work and I typically put that out at about half a pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet.In general, I much prefer AMS to urea and this is especially true when temps are nearing semi-dormant conditions… I can apply AMS at 40° soil temps and still get a dark color response. AMS is faster than urea in release timing and doesn’t rely on temperature as much to get going into the nitrification process. It offers less leaching and less evaporation so it is more efficient in several ways vs. typical urea. Since AMS can be taken up by the grass even in most of Winter in my area the grass stays so much darker year round vs. other nitrogen sources and there are also studies that have shown more Iron and magnesium uptake into the plant when using AMS (aka: chlorophyll).I run my nitrogen around 3 pounds annually and try not to go much over that as to not encourage too much thatch or an overly delicate leaf tissue (reduced traffic tolerance). I like to pair AMS with about 1.2# of phosphorus annually (from monoammonium phosphate) and at least 2# of potassium (from potassium sulphate) per 1000 square feet. Mow first… follow mowing lines. Apply AMS with at least 1 gallon of water per .1# of nitrogen (about 1/2# AMS per gallon max) to avoid tip burn… .15#N is a typical application for me and I try to apply about every 3 weeks. In the Fall I’ll do a few apps around .2# of N where I’ll be closer to .06-.08# per application during Summer or Winter.I’m a 100% perennial ryegrass lawn (≈75% Hattrick & ≈25% Pangea breads) in Washington state. Last year I was reel mowing at around 1/2”, but I’m planning to bring that height up to around 1” this year to get the grass even darker.For best color while avoiding excessive growth fertilizing little and often is best (no more than 0.2# of N at a time) and that is only possible with liquids. I don’t like to pay to ship water in plastic jugs (premade liquids that need to be added to water anyway), so water soluble makes the most sense for my 2400 square foot high input front lawn.In my 6,000 square foot back lawn, splurging on ProPEAT only costs me around $150 annually and gets similar enough results. Generally I’m putting about 1/2# of N down at a time when spreading 13-5-8 ProPEAT (3.85# of product per 1000 sq. ft.Sprayables if you don’t mind fertilizing often and want the absolute best lawn possible with the most even color that is alway green.ProPEAT if you want the benefits of AMS without as much cost, but make sure you know how to accurately spread fertilizer first! AMS has a very high salt index that is double what urea’s salt index is, so it is easier to burn the lawn if you don’t know what you’re doing.A fail safe method for spreading granular fertilizer is to simply weigh out the correct amount needed for the area… set the spreader to a very low setting and go over the yard in multiple different directions until you’re out of the weighed out product.For granular fertilizers I’d recommend .5# or .75# per application.As an example of how to determine the correct amount of fertilizer is needed, if you’re aiming for a rate of .65# of N / 1000’, start with that number in the calculator… divide that by the first NPK number on the bag but remember to assign a decimal point because that number on the bag represents a percentage of nitrogen by weight. Lastly, multiply that amount by the area in how many thousands of square feet are being fed.So, to apply .65# of nitrogen from a fertilizer with a 24-8-16 analysis on a 5,000 square foot area, divide .65 by .24 to get a weight of 2.4# of product needed per 1000 square feet… for this 5,000 square foot area 2.4 x 5 = 12# of product needed for 5000’.Target rate (.65) divided by percent nitrogen (.24) multiplied by how many thousands of feet are in the area (5).