This device works by comparing your engine speed to your wheel speed. It needs 4 connections: black - Ground (provided by speed sensor plug), red - 12v accessory on hot (most people suggest you get this from the brake light, doesn't really matter), white - Speed sensor input (provided by the speed sensor plug), and green - Crankshaft sensor/Engine RPM/Tach (on my bike this was the gray wire on the ECU harness).The easiest way to learn this device is to use a wheel Jack or a bike stand to get the rear wheel in the air.1. turn the key on, you should see a slow flashing L. Spin your rear tire by hand, you should see the L flash as its registering the tire turning, it will flash as you turn it and go back to normal slow flashing when you stop. This means the unit is correctly seeing the speed sensor input.2. start the engine, the L should start flashing quickly. This means that the unit is correctly seeing the Crankshaft sensor. If it doesn't flash faster then you have tapped the wrong wire.3. now that the engine is running and the L is flashing quickly put the engine in gear and just barely let off of the clutch, the unit will see that the tire has started turning and then start flashing 1. at this point speed up to around 2K rpm and the unit will eventually show n. shift into the next gear, the unit will flash 2. again speed to around 2k rpm and continue. FOR MOST USERS, you will do this until it learns all 6 gears and at the 6th gear it will display o when it learns 6th and you will be done.5 GEAR BIKES! - if your bike only has 5 gears, once you get to the 5th gear in the learn in procedure, after the unit says n after learning in the 5th gear, simply pull the clutch in and hold it but let the tire continue to spin. do this until the unit times out and displays o. This basically tells the unit that there is not 6th gear because it can see the tire continuing to move but it see's the engine at idle. Using this method will keep the unit from getting confused while in top gear. before I figured this out the unit would constantly switch between 5 and 6 when I was in top gear.Personal experiences. My first unit was bad out of the box. 2nd unit worked perfectly fine. on the FJR 1300, this device is a bit of a beast to install. you have to pull the airbox out which requires removing the injectors and fuel rail etc. etc. that speed sensor is in a really terrible place to tap into. I ended up cutting the connector off and wiring everything direct into the ECU harness which is MUCH Easier. on the 2004 FJR NON-ABS ECU Harness. Red = Fuel injector power (12V Acc on hot - be careful not to blow this fuse), Black = Ground, Gray = Crankshaft sensor input, White with Yellow stripe = Speed sensor input.

super delayed display. (probably 2 to 3 sec)not sure if I can recommend it unless you dont shift fast or often.

The lack of instructions with this madeIt almost impossible to install correctly. There are 2 triangle connectors on the bike and the one it attaches to is buried under the air box and a mother to get to

Installed on a 2003 yamaha R1, crank case tap just doesn’t get it to flash out of L. i watched a youtube video that said to switch it to the wire next to the light grey if the flashing L doesn’t switch over to 1 in learning mode, but it wouldn’t ever work. tried a lot of configurations and followed the instructions very closely (even locating the crankcase sensor by the line going down). i know it works up to the L learning point because it powers up and works up to the learning point.in conclusion, do not buy as it doesn’t work and maybe depends on the QA. the unit i received never worked properly.cannot recommend.

Fits great on my yamaha fz1

I install different brand on my 2014 ninja and my 2004 gsxr. First time i try this one and regret every second that i try to installed.1 instructions are not clear at all.2 it say plug and play but doesn't mention the puzzle you have to do figuring out where the green and red cables go.3 ones you play inspector gajet on where the cable go then you have to hope that is fine and take it for a ride so the device learn the gears. After 3 hours on it i installed but it worn only 50% of the time so i just ripped a part and wasted my time. Would definitely not recommend. Not even to the people i hate

For the price it can't be beat. In fact the green LED one was ten bucks cheaper at only $21. It must be an unpopular color but green LEF's are the easiest to read in daylight.I installed it on a 2001 Yamaha R6. Easy installation. Plug into existing harness, connect power and ground and the only other wire gets tapped into the grey or brown wire under the seat. That wire is to the right of the battery (when viewing as if sitting on the bike).The LED is very bright, at least the green one is. I put a dimmer on mine because although it's great during the day when it's sunny out, at night I found it to be too bright, but the dimmer did the trick and didn't affect functionality at all.Programming it was as easy as turning on the key, waiting for it to say L.Start the bike in neutral,When it counts down and says "n" start riding. Wait for it to say n again, shift in to 2nd,Wait again for the "n", then upshift again.Continue this until the end, it will then flash a few times and when it says "O", you're done.The first time I tried to program it, I ran out of road before I got into 6th gear so I had to start over.To start over, Just turn the key on and off 6 times. When you turn on the key, the device counts down, turn key off when it's counted down to 4-3. Do that six times in a row. It will reset.You'll know it's reset and ready to be reprogrammed when you turn the key on and it reads "L".Just make sure you have a long enough stretch if road, with no cars around to go through the gears and allow a few seconds in each gear. You have to go through the entire gear cycle one at a time, in order to complete the programming.I was worried it might get confused for instance if I skipped a few gears with the clutch in and down shifting for instance.How does it know if I go from say 6th, and go down to third with the clutch in? I don't know how, but it knows. Regardless of what gear you select, as soon as you release the clutch, it knows exactly what gear you're in. I've never been able to trip it up or confuse it, so the technology they employ works flawlessly.Other manufacturers use the fact that there's a delay between when you shift gears and it displays the number. I can tell you that's total bs. It's fast. By the time you shift and look down, the number has changed. I'd say within a third of a second.I use it mainly to see that I haven't down shifted into 1st by mistake, which if you ride this model of bike, you know is not something you want to do above like 5 mph because first gear is so low, it will lock up your rear tire and cause you to skid. Also I used it more when I changed the gearing and on the highway wasn't sure if I was in 6th. I wasn't used to the extra RPM's on the highway, so I found myself searching for one more gear when I was already in 6th.Anyway, if you're on a budget, save your money and don't waste it on gear indicators that cost over $100. buy one of these. Once you get it installed, you won't regret it.With that said, I really wish a company would make one of these with a shift light built-in as well. There are some on the market, but those are also in the $100 range and I'd rather put that towards new tires or something else.

I wanted this because the top 2 gears on my FZ6R are so close in ratio that even I with 50+ years of riding experience sometimes had difficulty knowing whether I was in 5th or 6th gear. It's probably my age as I used to be able to "feel" what gear I was in and don't ride as far and as often as I used to. Look on YouTube for install videos as the instructions that come with it are (in my opinion) a bit vague. I went with the BLUE option and it works well in all light situation and besides, I don't like RED. :-)

Got this for my boyfriends bike, does what it’s meant to do