Victor SR450D Oxygen Regulator Rebuild/Repair Parts Kit w/DIAPHRAGM

Highly recommend watching a You Tube video or two if you're no familiar with how to rebuild, but it's fairly simple and the kit had everything needed for my gauges.Price not great, given there really isn't much to replace in the regulator.

Good quality product

I seldom use my torch setup. My gauges are old and when I went to use the setup, the Victor 250 oxy regulator popped. So I installed another old regulator a Victor 450, it also popped. Years ago I had a professional rebuild my Oxy regulator and it cost me $70...... So I purchased two different rebuild kits and fixed both my old regulators. You can do this.

I love my old style gauges, I watched a YouTube video on how to replace the parts. It’s so easy and saved me money.

This kit is exactly what was needed to repair my Victor oxygen regulator. was an easy repair.

The one I got was complete and easy to install. I have no leaks and it works GREAT

Shipped quickly. Fit perfectly. Easy to install. Made my old regulator work like new for s fraction of the cost. Highly recommend this product.

These appear to be Victor replacement parts. The o-rings in my ancient Victor O2 regulator were finally done, and it starting leaking out of the vent holes as soon as I cracked the tank valve open. If you're reading this review you probably know what I'm talking about. I removed it from the tank and pulled the gages off so I could clamp it in a vice for disassembly. There are no instructions with this kit, so here is the order of operations. It took me much longer to write this down than it did to actually rebuild my regulator.1. Remove the regulator from the tank.2. Remove the torch hose from the regulator.3. Remove the LP and HP gages from the regulator. It's easier, and they probably need to be cleaned up or replaced anyway.4. Clamp the back of the regulator in a vise, just tight enough to hold it. Don't crush your regulator!5. Back out the T-handle adjustment screw from the front of the regulator, and remove it.6. Match-mark the back and front halves of the regulator so you know where to tighten the face back to at reassembly. A sharpie works fine.7. Use a 2-inch 6-point socket, 2-inch, and a small impact gun to remove the front of the regulator - a pipe wrench will also work but will chew up the brass. I don't have a crescent wrench that will open that wide. The impacting action of the gun really helps rather than just a straight pull with a wrench.8. Pull the cover/face off the regulator body. The coil spring may come with it, so be careful for loose parts from this point forward.9. Flip the cover over and remove any dirt. You can clean it with soap and water, just nothing with oil or hydrocarbons. No brake cleaner, oil, or grease! That will not end well in a pure oxygen atmosphere!10. Take a picture of the orientation of the spring cup, coil spring, diaphragm, valve, valve seat, and so on. Basically take a picture of it every time you pull a part off. There's only 1 right way to reassemble it, but a bunch of ways to screw it up.11. Once you disassemble the regulator, blow it out with compressed air. You can wash with soap and water too, but again NO OIL, GREASE, OR OTHER HYDROCARBONS!12. Install the new clear valve seat in the regulator body - make sure the old one is out first.13. Install the new white split ring onto the valve stem, and then install the valve stem into the regulator body.14. Install the new diaphragm onto the cup. Refer to your pictures for the correct orientation for these parts.15. Install the new body o-ring in the groove. It's tempting to use a little grease to hold it in place, but if you do that you may die. I wouldn't.16. Place the diaphragm onto the regulator body. Now is a good time to make sure you don't have any "extra" new or old parts. If you do, time to look through your pictures some more.17. Place the coil spring and cup onto the diaphragm.18. Slowly set the regulator face back onto the body. Rotate it slowly to the left (yes, to the left) until you feel the starting threads jump off of each other. Then you can turn it to the right without cross-threading it.19. Hand-tighten the face as far as you can. You should have about 1/4 to 1/2 of a full turn left for the tools to finish up with. Use the tools to tighten until the match marks line up again. Don't over tighten the brass threads or you will need a whole new regulator if they are damaged.20. Reinstall the pressure gages usingTeflon tape on the threads.21. Install the T-handle. You'll feel the increase in resistance when it touches the diaphragm. Stop turning it then.22. Install the regulator to the tank and reconnect the torch hose. These connections shouldn't need any teflon tape.23. Crack open the tank valve ~1/4 turn, or just enough that you know it's open. Let the pressure come up on the GO pressure have and stabilize to tank pressure. Then cut the tank valve off slowly. The pressure gage should read the same unless you have leaks.24. To find leaks, spray down the regulator with Windex or soapy water. The bubbles will tell you where the problems are.25. After fixing any HP/tank side leaks, open the tank valve back up 1/4 turn. Now turn the T-handle clockwise in 1/2 turn increments until you see pressure on the LP gage get to 20 psi. Hit the torch oxygen key a few times to make sure you're getting O2 to the torch again.26. Turn the tank valve off. Note the pressure reading, and let everything sit for 10 minutes or more. If the reading doesn't change then you're good. If it drops, find the leaks and fix them. The reading shouldn't go up.27. At the end of the day note the LP and HP gage readings. Turn the tank valve off and check the gage readings the next morning. If they are both the same, you are good to go. If one or both is lower the next day then you have a leak or 4 to find and fix. Oxygen, and acetylene, leaks are ALWAYS WORTH finding and FIXING.