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Your cart is empty.Denis P.
Reviewed in Canada on January 22, 2025
Ne donne pas la température en Celsius
sam
Reviewed in Canada on September 7, 2024
Installed reset unit and fired right up on h250 unit
Greenwood
Reviewed in Canada on August 15, 2024
A1
Victor Quintero
Reviewed in Mexico on May 6, 2024
Justo lo que ordene.
son
Reviewed in the United States on January 29, 2023
Pool Heater giving a code for temp sensor. Replaced now works better then before. Awesome! Thanks!
Gus c
Reviewed in the United States on September 8, 2022
Same part as Hayward. Works great less money
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on September 22, 2022
It was easy to install and fixed the problem
GautengRob
Reviewed in the United States on February 14, 2022
Arrived Sunday a little tricky to install if you take the top bolt out and then the sensor it’s easy. Again a little tricky getting it through the one hole to the board I just took the black ring out as I didn’t want to damage the connection.. the sensor wire is a little thinner. Temp reading was spot on fired up correctly and no further issues.. I rated this a buy and a good buy.. not sure on the other posters issues or why take your time install it correctly
Dave
Reviewed in the United States on October 18, 2022
This sensor is working great so far. When I tested the old sensor the readings were maybe only one digit lower than what was normal. Ordered the new one because it was cheap. I was worried that the thinner wires were going to throw off the resistance and the temp somehow as some people complained, If you have an error code SF, by the H250 ed2 manual it's the thermistor sensor that failed. No other sensors relate to this code. Some comments suggest that it then is a failed circuit board. My problem was that prying off the old one at the circuit board loosened the connection. If your pins wobble on the circuit board connector you may think your newly purchased sensor doesn't work, or your board was bad, when in fact it's now a problem with the board, but that was only because you just damaged it. I went to an electrical repair guy who resoldered my connector to the board and I cleaned up with some alcohol around a couple other capacitor connections on the board and it fired right up reading 82. Since on this model heater you can't just buy a new circuit board for $250, you'd have to buy a whole new panel for at least $550 this was a life saver.Tip 1: turn off the heater breaker, take the two screws that hold the plastic cover and heat shield so you can more easily gently pry off the old wire connector from the circuit board (after you unclip it). Don't worry if the plastic clip breaks, the connection is tight enough without it.tip 2: You don't have to go thru the process of removing the thermistor from the manifold and installing the new one to test if it works. Simply connect the new one out of the bag and it will display air temp instead of water temp. Your fault code should go away. Now you can disconnect, feed the wire thru and install the sensor and reconnect.
domenic m.
Reviewed in Canada on August 13, 2021
Once installed the temperature reading was way off by 15 to 20 degrees. Not sure why the old flakey one read right temp but this new one way off. I need to return it and get another.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on July 18, 2021
Price was great. Sensor did not read correct temperature. Heater showed 60 degrees when water was in the 80’s. Replaced with one from different vender and no issues. Wiring on replacement sensor from other vendor was thicker and read correctly instantly
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on May 26, 2021
Hayward h250 would not run and getting the sf code. Replaced with this sensor and it runs now but its getting a current temperature of 52 when the pool is 75. Not sure what to do. Might try just adjusting the current temp to 60 and see if it functions correctly. The way the sensors go bad it will be replaced again soon anyway
R L
Reviewed in the United States on April 22, 2021
I began my Hayward Pool Heater H400IDL repair quest one breezy afternoon with the By-Pass Valve Kit Replacement(P/N: HAXBPK1932) to fix the knocking & banging problem. Along with a new thermostat & new o-rings, that repair was successfully completed. I went to fire up the heater and got the 'Service' light on & the error code 'SF'. After some online research, I learned which part was the most likely culprit. As most pool owners can attest, the markup on parts is often quite ridiculous. I came across this seller with their brand(non-OEM) replacement part that I needed & decided to take a chance. They had a good rating & the part was reasonably priced(IMO). A couple of days later, part in hand, I resumed my quest(cue inspirational music!). To be honest, I wasn't expecting much. My resistance tests on the old part were inconclusive. I proceeded to remove old sensor, applied a good amount of thread seal tape to new sensor, screwed it into header, connected the electrical end to control board, buttoned everything up & prepared to fire it up once again. When I pressed the mode button twice, the display went from 'standby' to 'spa' to 'pool', the exhaust fan kicked on(raining dead leaves & debris on me in the process) & a few seconds later the flames ignited & the 'Heat' light turned on. No more error code! I celebrated later by skewering a hot dog & cooking it over the hot air exhaust along with a beer. So good! Don't judge me!I can't speak to the longevity of this part yet, but it definitely fixed the 'SF' code. I hope this review helps someone. Good luck with your repair!UPDATE: We have enjoyed many heated pool sessions since the above repairs were completed several weeks ago. However, as another reviewer stated, the temperature reading on the display is not accurate. This fact has not really affected our ability to heat the pool. My set point temp is usually 90°. The inaccurate sensor temp may be as much as 20° lower than actual temp at times, which simply means the heater keeps heating the water for hours until I turn it off. This part allowed my heater to work. My next option would have been to replace the expensive control board, which did show signs of overheated resistors. Is the old control board to blame for the inaccurate temp readings or the non-OEM sensor or a combination of both? I'm not sure. And I may at some point have to change the control board anyways. But for now, I have a consistently functioning pool heater that the family is enjoying.
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