Parts 15-60087 Heater Core

Anyone who has replaced one of these can tell you it is a job and using oem parts on such a job is reassuring

Perfect fit, quality build

It fits like the original, because it is! Works great!

Purchased this in May of 2022, and it started leaking 6 months later, not to mention, this is no easy task to replace. Very disappointed with this "GM Genuine part"

Changing the heater core in my 1999 S10 4x4 was not for the faint of heart! After checking with a dealer and a heat/ac shop, it was going to be a minimum of $1600 + parts. The heater core itself was $239 for an AC Delco (from the dealer). I chose to go the route of do-it-yourself and it took, in total, about 12 hours. The heater core sourced through Amazon came from Amazon Fulfillment Services in a plain box. The heater core was wrapped in plain paper and come with no documentation or labels indicating a factory original, however there was a label simply taped to the outside of the box indicating AC Delco (see picture). I have no reason to believe this was not an OEM as it identically matched my original until. As others have mentioned, it does not come with weatherstripping foam, so I simply used my own, replicating the pattern from my old unit. Everything lined up as expected with factory replacement. After 12 hours of labor, removing the entire dash, replacing the core and reversing the process, I'm very pleased with the result. Lots of heat! Lessons learned from the experience:1. Plastics on a vehicle of this age can be brittle so SUPER caution must be exercised. I have no doubt the shop would have broken several trim pieces which are now difficult to source. I probably broke 4-5 little retention clips even trying to be cautious.2. Before installing the new core, I bought a bypass connector and performed 2 radiator flushes to help minimize contaminants from getting into the new heater core.3. Some videos show tilting the dash forward as far as possible as opposed to actual removal. I personally found this option to be extremely limiting from an access perspective and chose to remove the dash in its entirety. I'm sure this added 2-4 hours in the whole process, but in my opinion, it was worth it to open up the space. I had also removed the seats and center console (less then 30min total) to give me best possible access.4. I used the opportunity to steam clean the carpeting, removing 20+ years of food and other debris that had fallen between the seat cracks! I was also able to wipe down all the interior of the dash, the ventilation channels and sop up 1-2 cups of old coolant from inside the heater box after the old core failed. I'm not sure the shop would have taken this level of care.5. Finally, while dismantled, I ordered a factory original stereo with Bluetooth modification for music streaming. Even with this additional cost, the money I saved made this well worth it.Overall, I'm very pleased I went this direction and I believe I received a decent quality, original core. I unfortunately don't have an overall picture of the new core but have included a picture of it in the heater box as I began the reassembly process. I could have purchased a cheaper, aftermarket core, but coming in below $100 for a factory original, made this a no brainer. I've had the truck since new (single owner) and getting 23 years out of the original before failure, made an OEM replacement the right choice!

99 S10 Blazer 4.3 130K. Started smelling AF through the HVAC vents early last spring. Plugged off the heater core and used an EBay heater core bypass kit to use the vehicle all summer. Finally got around to installing the core in mid fall just as I would need the heat. Installation is quite involved. Took many days in a heated garage to remove and replace. The dash has to be removed or at least tilted forward, to gain access to the heater box, then the heater box it too must be tilted forward to gain access to the heater core itself. But there are hidden bolts in the engine compartment, one under the blower resistor inside the heater box, two on the firewall behind the fender wheel house just behind the exhaust manifold that will require a special short 10mm gear wrench (Harbor Freight) to remove. One inside under the carpet in the passenger footwell area.The old foam insulation was not re-useable so I found that Frost King Window Air Conditioner Filter Material (15”x24”x3/16) at Lowe’s worked well. Simply cut a 4” wide strip long ways then fold it over doubling its thickness so you have a thicker 2” wide and 24” long strip- and then applying it on the left right and bottom of the core in a “U” shape and then simply sliding the core and foam together in the heater box snug - no sticky tape or adhesive required. Another small piece on top doubled over snug fit.

Bought used one of the lines is loose hopefully it works for me.

Nice-good price-again very,very slow to arrive